High Tunnel Greenhouse - Growing Vegetables Under Cover

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High Tunnel Greenhouse - Growing Vegetables Under Cover

High tunnel greenhouse for vegetable growing: row layout, ventilation, irrigation and crop rotation under a film tunnel. .

TEL：+86 191 5068 3942

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Technical data

A row of film covered tunnels on a sloping field under an overcast sky

Galvanised hoop frame of a tunnel set over rows of young vegetable seedlings

Why Vegetables Suit a Tunnel:

Vegetables are the crop a high tunnel was invented for. Most of them will not take a frost, many of them bolt or turn bitter in heat, and nearly all of them are worth more in the weeks when nothing else is coming out of the field. A tunnel answers all three at once: it keeps the frost off in spring and autumn, it can be opened up through the day so the crop does not cook, and it moves the harvest window at both ends of the season. The second photo above shows a frame set over rows of young plants - that is a vegetable tunnel mid-build, with the hoops up and the cover still to go on. The value is not that the tunnel grows a better cabbage; it is that it grows a cabbage in a month when the market pays for one.

Row Layout and Working Space:

Vegetables are grown on the ground in a tunnel, in beds or in bags, so the layout is set by the rows and by how you will work them. Plan the bed width from the crop - a leafy crop can be picked from a narrow bed, a fruiting crop needs room for the plants to spread and for you to get between the rows - and then plan the paths from whatever will move along them, whether that is a wheelbarrow, a barrow-mounted sprayer or a small tractor. The commonest mistake in a vegetable tunnel is filling every metre with bed and leaving no working space: a tunnel with sensible paths is worked faster all season than one that is a few percent fuller. Height matters more here than in a flower tunnel, because tall crops like tomatoes, cucumbers and climbing beans need the headroom above the row.

Ventilation: The Part That Makes or Breaks It:

Most disappointing vegetable tunnels are disappointing for one reason, and it is not the frame. A sealed tunnel in warm weather turns into an oven by mid-morning, and a vegetable crop in an oven either bolts or wilts. The roll-up sides along each side are the main control, and they need to be opened early, not once the crop is already stressed. On a long run, a door at the far end as well as the working end lets air move through the tunnel instead of stalling halfway. Where the local summer is hot and humid, shading and a wet curtain are worth pricing with the structure - and it is far cheaper to include them when the frame is drilled than to retrofit them into a finished tunnel. Greenhouse irrigation belongs in the same conversation, because a tunnel that is properly vented dries out faster than a field.

Water, Feeding and Soil:

Under cover there is no rain to leach the soil, so salts build up where they would have been washed away in a field, and the crop takes its water entirely from what you put on. Both are manageable and both are easy to get wrong: a drip line or an overhead boom on a timer, with the run-off managed so it does not pond at the low end of the tunnel, keeps the root zone even, and an occasional heavy watering to push salts down below the rooting depth is worth more than any additive. Growing in the same soil season after season is the other thing to plan for - rotating the beds, or growing in bags or on benches, avoids the build-up of soil-borne problems that a fixed vegetable tunnel otherwise collects.

Sizing, Delivery and Ordering:

Tell us the crops you plan to grow through the season, the bed and path widths you want to work with, and your site wind speed and ground conditions. From that we set the span, the height, the hoop spacing and the anchoring, and quote the roll-up sides, the irrigation and any shading with the structure. If you are planning to extend later, order the film width and the anchoring for the length you intend to finish with. Normal shipping time is 4 to 6 weeks after receipt of order, plus transit from the factory; 30% of the basic greenhouse price is charged on receipt of order and the balance before shipment. Look through the tunnel greenhouse models and the film greenhouse range, or the wider commercial greenhouse range, read more about our greenhouse factory, call +86 191 5068 3942 or send an E-mail to sales@cngreenhouses.com.

We have supplied growers and project contractors across Africa, South Asia, the Middle East and Latin America for many years. Guidance on protected vegetable production is published by organisations such as the FAO, and commercial greenhouse trade news is reported by Greenhouse Grower.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: What vegetables grow best in a high tunnel?

A: The ones that are worth most in the weeks when the field has nothing to sell - leafy crops, salad and herbs at the ends of the season, and fruiting crops like tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers through the summer where the tunnel has the headroom.

Q: How wide should the beds and paths be?

A: Bed width follows the crop; path width follows whatever has to move along it, whether that is a barrow or a small tractor. Filling every metre with bed and leaving no working space is the commonest mistake in a vegetable tunnel - sensible paths are worked faster all season.

Q: Do I need irrigation if the crop is under cover?

A: Yes - under cover there is no rain, so the crop takes all its water from what you apply. A drip line or overhead boom on a timer also keeps the root zone even, and an occasional heavy watering pushes salts down below the rooting depth.

Q: Why does my tunnel overheat even when it is ventilated?

A: Usually because the sides are opened too late rather than because there is not enough vent area. Roll-up sides need to open early in the day. On a long run a second door at the far end matters too, so air moves through instead of stalling halfway.

Q: Can I grow in the same soil every year?

A: Better to rotate the beds, or grow in bags or on benches. A fixed vegetable tunnel otherwise collects soil-borne problems and salts season after season. Rotating what is grown where is the cheapest control you have.

Q: What do you need from me to quote?

A: The crops you plan to grow through the season, the bed and path widths you want, and your site wind speed and ground conditions. From that we set the span, height, hoop spacing and anchoring, and quote the sides, irrigation and shading with the structure.

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