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High Tunnel Kits - Poly Tunnel Kit with Hoops and Film
High tunnel kits with galvanised hoops, purlins, channels and film: what the kit contains, how it is anchored and how to build it. .
TEL：+86 191 5068 3942
  • Features
Newly built poly tunnel with the side film rolled up during construction
Inside a poly tunnel with rows of strawberry plants on black mulch film

What Comes in the Kit:

A high tunnel kit is the whole structure in one delivery, sized to the run you order. It contains the galvanised hoops, the purlins that tie them together, the diagonal bracing, the base plates or ground anchors, the aluminium channels and spring wire that hold the film, the roll-up side kits and the film itself, cut to the width of your tunnel. What it does not contain is the ground works and the labour to erect it, and those are the two items to put in your own budget before you order. The first photo above shows a kit part way through assembly, with one side film rolled up and the frame still open - that is the stage where the anchors and the first hoops set the whole run.
 

Hoops, Purlins and Spacing:

The hoops are hot dip galvanized steel pipe, set at a fixed spacing along the run, with purlins running the length of the tunnel and diagonal bracing at the ends and at intervals. The spacing is not a fixed number across every site: it is set from the wind load the tunnel has to take, so a windy or exposed site gets hoops closer together and more bracing than a sheltered one. This is the part of a kit that buyers most often get wrong by comparing on price alone - two kits with the same footprint can carry different steel weights and different hoop counts, and the lighter one will be the one that leans in a gale. Ask for the hoop spacing and the pipe specification, not just the dimensions.
 

Anchoring: Ground Anchors or Concrete:

How the hoops are held down decides how the tunnel behaves in wind. Ground anchors driven into the soil suit most sites and are the cheaper and faster option; they are the normal choice for a field tunnel that will be re-covered and used for years. A concrete strip or kerb is used where the wind figure is high, where the ground is soft or made-up, or where the tunnel doubles as a permanent structure with a floor. Tell us your site wind speed and what the ground is like, and the anchoring and the hoop spacing come out of those two answers together - not out of the kit's price sheet.
 

Building It Yourself:

A tunnel is the one greenhouse type that is genuinely practical to build with your own team. There is no glazing, the hoops go up on the ground in sequence, the purlins and bracing bolt on, and the film is pulled over the finished frame and fixed into the channels. The parts are pre-cut and pre-drilled and come with a layout drawing, and the sequence is set out bay by bay so the run stays straight. The two steps that decide the result are setting the first hoops plumb and in line, and tensioning the film correctly - get those right and the rest of the run follows. If you would rather have help, our engineers can travel to site to guide the assembly, and the roll-up sides, greenhouse irrigation and a simple heating run are all specified with the kit.
 

Sizing, Delivery and Ordering:

Kits are made in the width and length you need, and a run can be extended in bays rather than replaced, so it is worth ordering for the size you intend to end up with. Normal shipping time is 4 to 6 weeks after receipt of order, plus transit from the factory; 30% of the basic greenhouse price is charged on receipt of order and the balance before shipment. Tell us the width, the length, your site wind speed and ground conditions, and whether the kit is for a field you will re-cover or for a permanent structure - those answers set the hoop spacing, the anchoring and the film grade. Look through the tunnel greenhouse models and the film greenhouse range they belong to, or see the wider commercial greenhouse range and read more about our greenhouse factory, call +86 191 5068 3942 or send an E-mail to sales@cngreenhouses.com.
 
We have supplied growers and project contractors across Africa, South Asia, the Middle East and Latin America for many years. Notes on high tunnel production are published by organisations such as the USDA, and international greenhouse trade news is reported by HortiDaily.
 

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: What exactly arrives with a high tunnel kit?
A: The galvanised hoops, purlins and diagonal bracing, the base plates or ground anchors, the aluminium channels and spring wire, the roll-up side kits and the film cut to the width of your tunnel, plus the layout drawing. Ground works and erection labour are not included.
Q: How far apart should the hoops be?
A: It is set from the wind load on your site, not from a fixed table. An exposed site gets hoops closer together and more bracing than a sheltered one, so ask for the hoop spacing and the pipe specification rather than comparing kits on the footprint alone.
Q: Ground anchors or concrete - which do I need?
A: Ground anchors suit most sites and are cheaper and faster; a concrete strip or kerb is used where the wind figure is high, the ground is soft or made-up, or the tunnel is a permanent structure with a floor. Send us the wind speed and the ground conditions and both follow from that.
Q: Can I build it with my own team?
A: Yes - a tunnel is the most practical greenhouse type to self-build. Parts are pre-cut and pre-drilled and the drawing sets the sequence bay by bay. The two steps that decide the result are setting the first hoops plumb and in line, and tensioning the film correctly.
Q: Can the tunnel be lengthened later?
A: Yes, a run is extended in bays rather than replaced. It is worth ordering the anchoring and the film width for the size you intend to end up with, so a later extension does not mean re-doing the cover.
Q: What do you need from me to quote a kit?
A: The width and length, your site wind speed, what the ground is like, and whether the kit is for a field tunnel you will re-cover or for a permanent structure. Those answers set the hoop spacing, the anchoring and the film grade.

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